London Fashion Week - Designers We Loved!
Mar 05, 2015
Since we covered the designers we loved from the other side of the world, it would be wrong if we didn’t cover our favourite British talent. We are not being biased (well maybe just a bit) but when it comes to edgy fashion, London is known to be the week to watch! Here are some of the collections we found amazing, beautiful, interesting ....er... and amazing!
Roksanda’s Autumn/Winter 2015 collection is a study in texture and colour. Inspired by the movies including “The Bitter Tears of Petra Von Kant”, Roksanda’s designs were glamorous yet demure and confirms this designer as one to watch.
The autumnal pallet of purple, russet, tan and pumpkin combined with fluffy curled shearling, patchwork furs and appliquéd grid work, really made this collection a jaw dropping show.
Something else which we’ve noticed here at TMS in these AW15 collections is that added bit of sparkle. In Roksanda’s we see elements of decoration infused into her designs with sequins piled upon each other adding structure and sparkle to the evening wear… could we ask for more?
“I think the only way that any of us can ever be happy is to let it all hang out….and you know... f*ck it.” This is how Ashish described the Autumn/Winter 15 collection in the show notes and that sentiment was clearly reflected in the collection.
Inspired by Jane Fonda in Klute, a story of a bunch of high-class hookers who only dress for themselves, Ashish’s collection was a vision of red glossy knee-high lace up boots, sequin embroidered sweaters with “Sex” emblazoned over them and a ridiculous amount of fur which was all fused together to create this fabulous in-yer-face collection.
With the collection being described as “a high-octane of street sass” thanks to the designer’s use of sequined camo bombers, lace frilled lingerie, tie-dye denim studded with the spelling out of “Fuk U” and knee high red PV boots, Ashish definitely didn’t shy away from his message and we f***in love that!
It seems that across the fashion weeks, the 70’s are definitely making a comeback but JW Anderson has already started to look ahead and anticipate 80’s retro inspired collections.
Oversized working girl silhouettes were the staple of Anderson’s Autumn/Winter 15 collection combined with iconic 80’s shapes. Anderson posits nostalgia as his inspiration saying, “We’re living in a generation and a moment in fashion where you see a lot of nostalgia and that’s because, fundamentally, we are living in a moment where no one knows where they are going and everyone is trying to work out whether they fit.”
Anderson’s collection made nostalgia feel relevant and elegant with his use of vibrant colours and fabrics, really bringing that cutting edge, almost futuristic look of the 80’s to life once again with his leather and draping, his big shoulders and Puff Ball Jackets.
“Fidelity and fragility, nude mesh tipped with fluff, mad flower, red flowers” were the show notes of the collection. Rocha’s designs were on point and showed this new kid on the block knows exactly what she’s about as a designer.
The use of medieval silhouettes, bodices and bustle skirts formed modern day prom dresses and the fluff detailing gave the designs an almost Alicia Silverstone in Clueless style about them. Rocha also paired these feminine pieces with slightly more angelic silhouettes with splayed skirts which seemed to take on a sort of angelic wing detailing due to the way the feathers had been cast. This collection definitely didn’t disappoint on the detailing front!
Although starting her show with head to toe black looks combined with headscarf veils covered in those mad red flowers, she kept her designs sweet throughout with scalloped edging, fluff trims and elements of crochet. Rocha also took the traditional Mac and rendered it in pink, soft and fluid layers, making it more like a dress - and we loved it.
Inspired by the 1970’s, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi took their main inspiration for Preen’s Autumn/Winter 15 collection from Karen Carpenter and Sonic Youth, wanting to create a nostalgic bad romance.
Preen included their 70’s style inspiration through the use of checked dresses in winter shades, combined with checkerboard coats with shearing and sheepskin collars and panels. The use of leather lacing that weaves across/along the edges of dresses, knitted tank tops, fluted handkerchief sleeves and crochet ruffles that ran along trouser legs and jacket sleeves and, of course the explosion of floral prints, made it a wonderful collection.
So once again we see some fabulous talent and collections coming out of London Fashion Week this year to provide us with style inspiration for Autumn/Winter 15 and we couldn’t be more excited to start layering up again….maybe a few days of sun wouldn’t go amiss before then though!
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